Why is warm water comfortable, but warm air uncomfortable?

I friend of mine tried floating, where you lay in a bath kept at body temperature (98.6 degrees F). He said after a while you don't feel the water at all.

This made me wonder why being in warm water (bathtub, spa, etc) is comforting, but a hot weather feels miserable. Can someone explain the difference?

You constantly generate heat from metabolism. The ability of this heat to be transferred to your surroundings from your skin is tremendously different in air vs. water. This is known as thermal conductivity.

The ability of water to remove heat from your skin is roughly 24 times that of air. See list of materials and their thermal conductivity rates here

In water of close to body temp, you can still bleed off heat to water. Your ability to do so in air that is close to body temperature is greatly reduced, so much so that in order to keep up, you sweat and increase the cooling ability through the evaporation of that sweat at temperatures well below 98.6F.

Hot air generally has lesser moisture hence increasing the loss of moisture from our skin. Note that a sauna bath does not feel as uncomfortable.

Also while conductivity of water is grossly more than air (thermal) One has to take into account convection of hot air which may increase the total heat transfer from air to the body.

Discussion on Humidity


Water is a unique substance. It can exist as a liquid, solid (ice), and gas (water vapor). A primary way water vapor increases in the atmosphere is through evaporation. Liquid water evaporates from oceans, lakes, rivers, plants, the ground, and fallen rain. A lot or a little water vapor can be present in the air. Winds in the atmosphere then transport the water vapor from one place to another. A major source of water vapor in Kentucky is the Gulf of Mexico. Most of the water vapor in the atmosphere is contained within the first 10,000 feet or so above the earth's surface. Water vapor also is called moisture.


Absolute humidity (expressed as grams of water vapor per cubic meter volume of air) is a measure of the actual amount of water vapor (moisture) in the air, regardless of the air's temperature. The higher the amount of water vapor, the higher the absolute humidity. For example, a maximum of about 30 grams of water vapor can exist in a cubic meter volume of air with a temperature in the middle 80s. SPECIFIC HUMIDITY refers to the weight (amount) of water vapor contained in a unit weight (amount) of air (expressed as grams of water vapor per kilogram of air). Absolute and specific humidity are quite similar in concept.


Relative humidity (RH) (expressed as a percent) also measures water vapor, but RELATIVE to the temperature of the air. In other words, it is a measure of the actual amount of water vapor in the air compared to the total amount of vapor that can exist in the air at its current temperature. Warm air can possess more water vapor (moisture) than cold air, so with the same amount of absolute/specific humidity, air will have a HIGHER relative humidity if the air is cooler, and a LOWER relative humidity if the air is warmer. What we "feel" outside is the actual amount of moisture (absolute humidity) in the air.


Meteorologists routinely consider the "dewpoint" temperature (instead of, but analogous to absolute humidity) to evaluate moisture, especially in the spring and summer. The dewpoint temperature, which provides a measure of the actual amount of water vapor in the air, is the temperature to which the air must be cooled in order for that air to be saturated. Although weather conditions affect people differently, in general in the spring and summer, surface dewpoint temperatures in the 50s usually are comfortable to most people, in the 60s are somewhat uncomfortable (humid), and in the 70s are quite uncomfortable (very humid). In the Ohio Valley (including Kentucky), common dewpoints during the summer range from the middle 60s to middle 70s. Dewpoints as high as 80 or the lower 80s have been recorded, which is very oppressive but fortunately relatively rare. While dewpoint gives one a quick idea of moisture content in the air, relative humidity does not since the humidity is relative to the air temperature. In other words, relative humidity cannot be determined from knowing the dewpoint alone, the actual air temperature must also be known. If the air is totally saturated at a particular level (e.g., the surface), then the dewpoint temperature is the same as the actual air temperature, and the relative humidity is 100 percent.


If the relative humidity is 100 percent (i.e., dewpoint temperature and actual air temperature are the same), this does NOT necessarily mean that precipitation will occur. It simply means that the maximum amount of moisture is in the air at the particular temperature the air is at. Saturation may result in fog (at the surface) and clouds aloft (which consist of tiny water droplets suspended in the air). However, for precipitation to occur, the air must be rising at a sufficient rate to enhance condensation of water vapor into liquid water droplets or ice crystals (depending on air temperature) and to promote growth of water droplets, supercooled droplets, and/or ice crystals in clouds. Droplets grow through a process called "collision-coalescence" whereby droplets of varying sizes collide and fuse together (coalesce). Ice crystal processes (including deposition and aggregation) also are important for particle growth. In thunderstorms, hail also can develop. Once the suspended precipitation particles grow to sufficient size, the air can no longer support their weight and precipitation falls from the clouds. In humid climates, thunderstorms often cause heavier rain than general wintertime rainfall since moisture content in the air typically is higher in the spring and summer, and since air usually rises at a much more rapid rate within developing thunderstorms than in general winter systems. "Cloud microphysics" is the study of droplet and ice crystal production and growth within clouds and their relationship to precipitation.


Meteorologists are not just interested in dewpoint or absolute humidity at the surface, but aloft as well. Precipitable water (PW) is a measure of the total amount of water vapor contained in a small vertical column extending from the surface to the top of the atmosphere. However, as mentioned above, the majority of moisture in the atmosphere is contained roughly within the lowest 10,000 feet. Precipitable water values around or above 1 inch are common in the spring and summer east of the Rocky Mountains (including Kentucky). Values of 2 inches in the summer indicate a very high moisture content in the atmosphere, typical of a tropical air mass. In general, the higher the PW, the higher the potential for very heavy rain from thunderstorms if they were to develop. However, another very important consideration is not only the amount of ambient moisture in a particular location, but also the amount of moisture advection and convergence which provides additional moisture to an area. If significant, these added factors help explain why rainfall totals from thunderstorms can exceed actual PW values of the air in which the storms are occurring. The movement of thunderstorms, called propagation, also is very important in determining the actual amount of rainfall in any one location. The slower the movement of thunderstorms, the higher the rainfall potential in one area.


QUESTION 1: In the winter, if the air temperature was 40 F and the dewpoint was also 40, what would the relative humidity be? Now, in the spring, if the air temperature was 70 and the dewpoint was 70, what would the relative humidity be? In which situation would if feel more humid? What does this tell you about relative humidity? Answer to Question 1
QUESTION 2: If the air temperature was 95 F with a dewpoint of 70, would the air's relative humidity be higher or lower than if the air temperature was 70 degrees with a dewpoint of 55? Which air mass would feel more uncomfortable to you? Answer to Question 2
QUESTION 3: If the air temperature was 90 degrees with a relative humidity of 60 percent in the afternoon, would it feel more uncomfortable to a person than if it was 75 outside with a relative humidity of 100 percent in the morning? Answer to Question 3

These examples show how relative humidity can be quite misleading. In general, assuming the dewpoint or absolute humidity does not change, the relative humidity will be highest in the early morning when the air temperature is coolest, and lowest in the afternoon when the air temperature is highest.


While dewpoint is a more definitive measure of moisture content, it is the relative humidity that commonly is used to determine how hot and humid it "feels" to us in the spring and summer based on the combined effect of air temperature and humidity. This combined effect is called the " Heat Index." The higher the air temperature and/or the higher the relative humidity, the higher is the heat index and the hotter it feels to our bodies outside.


In the winter, there is another index we use to determine how cold our bodies feel when we are outside. This is called the "Wind Chill Index" (also known as "Wind Chill Factor"). This index combines the effect of the air temperature with the speed of the wind. When it is cold outside and the wind is blowing, the wind carries away heat from our bodies faster than if the wind was not blowing. This makes it feel colder to us. Therefore, the stronger the wind is in the winter, the colder it feels to us and the lower is the wind chill index.

QUESTION 4: If the temperature outside was 20 degrees with a wind speed of 20 mph, would this "feel" colder to you than if the temperature was 5 degrees with a 5 mph wind speed? Answer to Question 4

High humidity/dewpoints in the summer and cold wind in the winter are important because they affect how our bodies "feel" when we are outside. If the heat index is very high or the wind chill index is very low, then we must take safety measures to protect our bodies from possible effects of the weather, including heat exhaustion, sunstroke, and heat stroke in the summer, and frostbite in the winter.

Equator Weather

The equator receives the most direct sunlight and therefore the most solar energy. In general, the climate zone between 15 degrees north and 15 degrees south (15°N and 15°S) latitude has average temperatures above 64°F (18°C). The day-night temperature difference generally is greater than the temperature difference between the equator's warmest and coldest months. Elevation and weather patterns like thunderstorms influence the local equator temperatures as well.

During summer, the temperature at the north pole averages 32°F (0°C) while the temperature at the south pole averages −18°F (−28.2°C). During winter, the temperature at the north pole averages −40°F (−40°C) but the temperature at the south pole averages −76°F (−60°C). Geography controls the temperature difference between the north and south poles.

The north pole is located in ocean while the south pole lies on a continental mass surrounded by ocean. The sea water below the Arctic ice cap is slightly warmer than the ice and warms the air above. The land mass of Antarctica, however, reduces the influence of the ocean. The average elevation of Antarctica, about 7,500 feet (2.3 kilometers), also lowers the temperature at the south pole.

Idaho Ask a Scientist

Answered by Tamara Cox, RN, Eastern Idaho Public Health

Human skin contains different kinds of sensory receptors (cells) that can identify several distinct types of sensations, such as tapping, vibration, pressure, pain, heat, and cold. Each receptor is triggered by a specific stimulus. Thermoreceptors detect temperature changes and send electrical pulses through sensory nerves to the brain where the signals are processed.

We are equipped with some thermoreceptors that are activated by cold conditions and others that are activated by heat. Warm receptors will turn up their signal rate when they feel warmth—or heat transfer into the body. Cooling—or heat transfer out of the body—results in a decreased signal rate. Cold receptors, on the other hand, increase their firing rate during cooling and decrease it during warming.

Something interesting happens when you expose receptors to a specific sensation such as heat for a long time: they start to tire out and decrease their activity, thereby you will no longer notice the sensation as much.

Desensitize Your Thermoregulators

Could desensitization also alter our sensitivity to what we feel next? Try this activity and found out.
Materials: 3 pots or bowls large enough to submerge both hands, warm water, room-temperature water, ice water, towel, clock

  1. Fill one pot with very cold water or ice water.
  2. Fill the second pot with room-temperature water.
  3. Fill the third pot with warm water. Make sure the water isn’t too hot you’ll need to comfortably leave your hands in the water.
  4. Submerge your right hand in the pot with cold water.
  5. Put your left hand in the pot with warm water.
  6. Leave your hands in the pots for two minutes. Check your observation of the temperature of the water in each pot again. Does the cold water still feel as cold as it did at first? What about the warm water? Did the temperature of the water in the pots change or has your perception of the temperature changed?
  7. Remove your hands from the pots and immediately place both hands in the pot with room-temperature water. How would you describe the temperature of the water? Do both hands feel the same temperature?

You will probably be experiencing a difference in temperature sensation between the two hands. Even though both hands are now in the same container, and experiencing the same temperature, the left hand should feel hot, while the right hand should find the water pretty chilly.

You are experiencing something called a sensory adaptation. In this experiment when the right hand is placed in cold water, the cold sensitive thermoreceptors are activated causing an electrical pulse which passes down the sensory nerve in the fingertips and hands to the brain.

On the other side, when the left hand is placed in the warm water, the warm thermoreceptors are activated.

If your hand is exposed to heat for a long time then the hot sensitive receptors, will, much like muscles after a long workout, start to get tired. They become less sensitive to the stimulus. The same things happen to the cold receptors if your hand is exposed to the cold for a long time then the thermoreceptors become less sensitive to cold.

When you then moved your right hand to a warmer environment,the cold sensitive receptors had adapted, but the warm receptors had not and your left hand perceived the lukewarm container to be warmer than it really was.

On the left side, you effectively wore out your hot sensitive nerve endings and when you moved your hand to a colder environment the hot sensitive receptors had adapted, but the cold receptors had not, so the right hand perceived the middle container to be colder than it really was.

4 Reasons to Ditch Your Furnace for Radiant Heat

Visit any assortment of American homes built in recent years and, though you&rsquoll probably see a range of architectural styles, all are likely to have only one type of HVAC system&mdashforced air. For decades&mdashever since it first rose to prominence in the wake of the Second World War&mdashforced air has remained a default choice. Indeed, many homeowners are so accustomed to forced air that they mistakenly believe it&rsquos the only way to keep a home comfortable in the cold months of the year.

Given the ubiquity of forced-air heating, it&rsquos often the case that when homeowners complain about their heating&mdashits hit-and-miss performance, its high monthly costs&mdashthey are, without necessarily knowing it, criticizing forced air in particular. But throughout Europe and Asia, and increasingly in the United States, homeowners are discovering an alternative in radiant heating. A new technology with ancient roots, radiant heating surpasses forced air in a number of persuasive, important ways.

Keep reading for more information about why so many homeowners are fed up with forced air, and then learn how radiant heating improves upon that increasingly outmoded technology. The bottom line is, radiant heating offers a wholly different&mdashand more comfortable&mdashexperience, and operates at least 25 percent more efficiently than its predecessor, representing a dramatic step forward in home heating. It may even change your assumptions about what in-home warmth can be.

A forced-air system works by blowing furnace-heated air into a network of supply ducts, which in turn deliver the air to the various rooms of the house. Once it cools, the air re-enters the ductwork through return registers, finally reaching the furnace, where it will be heated and circulated again. Though this technology is widespread, the notoriously inefficient operation and uneven heating of such systems can be traced back to fundamentally flawed aspects of their design.

Uneven heating. In a room heated by forced air, it&rsquos warmest right near the vent. In fact, it might very well feel a little too warm there. Meanwhile, on the other side of the room, you could easily find yourself needing a sweater and a blanket to keep warm. Simply put, hot air is difficult to control. It is not evenly distributed and it will always rise to the ceiling or second floor. So, in the end, your comfort basically depends on your location relative to the nearest vent, or whether you are upstairs or down.

Noisy operation. Traditional forced air calls no small amount of attention to itself. It cycles on and off, creating not only uncomfortable temperature swings, but also a great deal of noise. When the system kicks on, warm air roars into the room and interrupts conversation (or sleep) before, minutes later, grinding to a halt. Then, once the room has cooled down to a threshold point, another loud blast invades&mdashand this annoyance continues all winter long.

Poor air quality. Though intended to channel warm air through your home, ductwork also often ends up collecting and distributing dust and other impurities, including germs. At the same time, the air recirculation that occurs in a forced-air system inevitably leads to stale, dry conditions. You&rsquore probably no stranger to &ldquoscratchy&rdquo indoor air in the winter. But such unpleasantness is not inevitable. Rather, it stems directly from a heating technology that relies on warm, blown air.

Energy inefficiency. Why does home heating cost those with forced-air systems a small fortune over the winter months? A primary explanation is that ducts are imperfect. Their tendency to leak&mdasheven if only through the joints that connect sections&mdashcompromises overall system efficiency. To make up for the heat loss, the furnace must work harder and consume more energy to maintain the target indoor temperature. You&rsquore essentially paying extra to correct the flaws of the system.

Technology has improved by leaps and bounds in nearly every avenue of life, including HVAC, and savvy homeowners are beginning to look beyond traditional forced air&mdasha search that has led them to radiant heating. Though it&rsquos been around, in one form or another, since the days of the Roman Empire, radiant heating hasn&rsquot always been a viable whole-home heating option. But today, thanks to contemporary manufacturers like Warmboard, many would argue that radiant heat now outperforms its peers.

While circulating air plays the central role in a forced-air system, water serves a largely similar function in hydronic radiant heat. In a radiant system, after water is raised to a target temperature by a boiler, it&rsquos pumped through a network of tubes that are set into panels beneath the flooring of the home. The water-fed tubes transfer heat to the panels, which then radiate heat outward to materials and objects in the room&mdashfirst the floor, and then the furniture and people occupying the living space.

Uniform heating. By virtue of the expanse of panels underlying the flooring, radiant heat delivers warmth across virtually every square inch of space. So, no matter where you&rsquore positioned in a room, or even as you&rsquore moving from one room to the next, you can expect the temperature to remain consistent. Plus, in contrast to forced air, there are no uncomfortable swings in radiant heating the comfort concentrates not in the air above you, but near the floor, at the level you actually inhabit.

Peace and quiet. Many homeowners insist that appliances like dishwashers ought to run quietly, but they seem to have lower expectations when it comes to home heating. People may assume that noise and heat go hand in hand, but they do not. Radiant systems deliver steady, all-encompassing warmth, and they do so in complete silence. In other words, you will be aware of your heating system only because you&rsquore so comfortable, not as a result of the noise it&rsquos making.

Superior air quality. For allergy sufferers and others concerned about indoor air quality, radiant heat can be like a breath of fresh air. First of all, the design of the system involves zero ductwork, which results in a dramatic reduction in the amount of dust wafting through the home. Second, radiant heating operates in a way that does nothing to detract from the moisture content of the air. That means you can bid farewell to the dry conditions that cause red eyes, sore throats, and dry sinuses!

Energy savings. Because it&rsquos ductless, radiant heat maximizes energy savings by minimizing heat loss. Not all radiant systems are alike, however. They all offer efficiency, but the right components can make a big difference in your monthly bills. Take Warmboard, for instance. Its panels are made not with sluggish concrete, but rather aluminum. Because aluminum conducts heat so effectively, these panels require the least energy of any radiant system and reach the set temperature more quickly as well.

Though radiant heat is still relatively rare in the United States, that situation is changing. More and more homeowners are ditching forced air and switching to radiant heat, because the newer technology excels where forced air falls short. Whereas home heating used to entail a choice between comfort and savings&mdashand certain negatives were seen as unavoidable&mdashradiant heat proves that you don&rsquot have to settle for anything less than even, &ldquoeverywhere&rdquo warmth that remains silent and dust-free while dramatically lowering energy bills.

Why is warm water comfortable, but warm air uncomfortable? - Biology

With vast swaths of the country currently in the grips of what seems to be an interminable heat wave, countless cool flowing freestone trout streams have turned into something altogether different. Even freestone streams with strong cold water influences and spring creeks that normally remain temperature stable throughout the year have seen soaring temps with fish abandoning their normal feeding and holding lies in search of cold refuges. Most of us who fish know that when trout streams get too warm, the fishing goes downhill fast. Fish are either nowhere to be found or aren't actively feeding.

For streams that straddle the borderline between the temperatures at which trout thrive and those at which they suffer, it's possible to find fish that are actively feeding, but for which you shouldn't be fishing unless you intend to keep said fish. The trouble for many fisherman can be determining where to draw the line. When it comes to trout, how hot is too hot?

The upper limits of the temperature range within which trout will feed, grow and remain unstressed by thermal conditions varies by species, however not all that significantly. These upper limits &mdash which may be as high as 80 degrees depending on the species &mdash can be very misleading. These upper limits characterize thermal conditions under which trout that are otherwise unstressed will die should those thermal conditions persist for a certain period of time (typically 24-48 hours) &mdash but they provide little to no information about how abnormally high water temperatures can affect a fish that is under respiratory and other forms of stress as a result of being hooked and played by an angler.

Warmer water contains less oxygen than colder water. As temperature rises and dissolved oxygen decreases, fish begin to experience stress. These stresses begin to set in well before the water temperature reaches lethal limits. For example, rainbow trout are said to be able to survive in temperatures up to and exceeding 77°F (24°C), but stop growing at 73°F (23° C). It stands to reason that a fish, one which is already oxygen stressed while positioned carefully in current that minimizes its energy use, will be dramatically more stressed after being hooked and attempting to fight its way to freedom. In fact, in many cases, a fish otherwise properly handled and released under thermally stressful conditions may be likely to not survive.

So how do you know when the conditions remain comfortable enough to fish your target stream without creating a lethal situation for its residents? Unfortunately, studies vary and there doesn't seem to be any one set of accepted limits. That said, there is a considerable consensus that all three major trout species (brook, brown and rainbow) begin to experience some level of stress at around 68°F (20°C), with that stress increasing rapidly as the temperature rises further. For brook trout, these limits are generally accepted to be a few degrees lower (some sources suggest as low as 65°). For many fishermen, 70°F (21°C) has become a round figure that represents the "don't fish" limit.

What is humidity?

The term most often used to define the amount of water vapor in the air is "relative humidity." Relative humidity is the percentage of water vapor in the air at a specific temperature compared to the amount of water vapor the air is capable of holding at that temperature. Warm air holds more water vapor than cold air. When air at a certain temperature contains all the water vapor it can hold at that temperature, its relative humidity is 100 percent. If it contains only half the water vapor it is capable of holding at that temperature, the relative humidity is 50 percent.

What Should the Humidity Be in Your House?

No matter what time of year it is or what indoor and outdoor temperature is, your humidity levels should stay between 30 to 50 percent.

If your indoor humidity levels are low or less than 30 percent, it’ll get too dry in your home, and this is called dry air. When this occurs, dry air results in dry skin, nosebleeds, and sore throats. At most times, dry air will make you feel warm, rather than cold.

However, if the humidity fluctuates the other way and gets too high, allergens like dust, mold, and fungus will start to multiply and thrive. The air can also start to feel uncomfortably heavy and warm. This can aggravate respiratory conditions and make it hard to breathe.

A cheap dehumidifier can help you control the humidity levels in your home. Once you turn it on, it’ll start pulling in the warm, wet air and filtering it through a set of coils. When the air touches these coils, it cools down and pulls the moisture from it.

The collected moisture either goes out of the dehumidifier through a hose, or it collects in a bucket, and you empty it. You can find my recommendations for the best cheap dehumidifier on this page. In the dehumidifier review, you can also find the features and services of a dehumidifier.

You can also use humidifiers to emit water vapor and increase moisture levels in the air. A humidifier can help avoid dry skin caused by dry air.

Is there anyone else out there who feels the same way? Leave a comment below.

Note: This post has gotten a lot of attention since I first wrote it. If you have life-affecting issues with confined spaces, please consider speaking to a therapist who can help you work through it. Secondly, if you have physical difficulty breathing in certain situations, you should discuss this with a doctor.

Sweat a lot? 5 Fabrics to Avoid

We all sweat when temperatures heat up, but some of us sweat more easily — and profusely — than others. There's nothing wrong with that — in fact, sweating is good for you. It opens up pores to release toxins and regulates body temperature. But when it happens on your way to work, at a party, or on a first date, it's inconvenient and feels pretty gross.

Fortunately, your wardrobe choices can help keep your perspiration at manageable (or at least less visible) levels. Shenan Fraguadas, a New York-based technical designer who has worked with brands like Helmut Lang and Uniqlo, recommends choosing natural fibers, including cotton, pima cotton, linen and tropical wool. "[They] are generally better at soaking up moisture from the skin and allowing it to evaporate from the outer surface," says Fraguadas. And here are five fabrics you're best off avoiding:


Viscose, more commonly known in the U.S. as Rayon, is a man-made fiber created from cellulose chemically extracted from trees. It's a little weaker in strength than cotton, and thus is often used to make delicate, lighter clothing. Although light and breezy, this synthetic fiber, like all synthetic fibers, tends to be water-repellent, Fraguadas says, allowing "sweat to build up, reducing evaporation, and causing discomfort and irritation."

"Silk, although a natural fiber, tends to repel water" rather than absorbing it, says Fraguadas. "It can get unpleasantly moist." If you have ever worn a silk shirt under sweltering conditions, you may have noticed the intense rippling on the fabric — particularly in areas prone to sweat stains. When water is held agains silk, the fabric puckers and ripples, and when the silk dries, the texture becomes more rough. Silk is also great at retaining body odor. Avoid.

Polyester/Polyester Blend

Perhaps the most common of the synthetic fabrics, polyester is ubiquitous in outdoor and winter wear. It's durable and boasts resistance to chemicals, mildew, abrasion, stretch, and mildew. It's also water-repellant, which means that rather than absorbing sweat, it allows perspiration to build up inside the garment. And polyester blended with natural fibers is no better. "[Natural] fibers can hide, and [even] a 40 percent blend or mix of synthetics can create wetness," warns Fraguadas.


Nylon is entirely synthetic, which puts it at the top of the list of fabrics to avoid. Nylon is commonly used in trendy workout attire and stockings, both of which can be extremely uncomfortable and leave the skin vulnerable to chaffing when you sweat. The only exception to wearing nylon in the summertime is swimwear, where its low absorbency and water resistance are central to the garment's performance.

Light-Colored Fabrics

Have you ever been to a crowded concert and didn't realize the guy in head-to-toe black was drenched in sweat until he bumped against you? Dark-colored fabrics make moisture much less visible, and bright white is actually equally effective at hiding sweat stains. It's the in-betweens, the light colors, that are bad news for those who sweat a lot. Light blues, pale greens, any shade of grey, and lighter hues of any color will show moisture right when it hits. Stock up on darks and white natural fibers for the warmer days ahead. When you're looking through summer photos, you'll be glad you did.

Watch the video: Neu Perfekte Romanze Hörbuch Bis du mich küsst von Marie Force (November 2021).